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Old 31st March 2009, 11:53 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Reading your Tyre

Some info which i thought might be useful




Tyre Type
Defines the proper use of the tyre. "P" means this is a passenger car tyre. "LT" means it is for a light truck.



Tyre Width
Width of the tyre measured in millimetres from sidewall to sidewall. The tyre in the diagram below is 185 millimeters wide



Aspect Ratio
Ratio of the height of the tyre's cross-section to its width. 65 means that the height is equal to 65% of the tyre's width.



Construction
This tells you how the tyre was put together. The "R" stands for radial, which means that the body ply cords. These cords are layers of fabric that make up the body of the tyre, and run radially across the tyre from bead to bead. A "B" indicates the tyre is of bias construction, meaning that the body ply cords run diagonally across the tyre from bead to bead, with the ply layers alternating in direction to reinforce one another.



Wheel Diameter
The width of the wheel from one end to the other. The diameter of the wheel in the diagram below is 14 inches.



Load Index
Indicates the maximum load in pounds that a tyre can support when properly inflated. You will also find the maximum load in pounds and in kilograms elsewhere on the tyre sidewall.



Speed Rating
Shows the maximum service speed for a tyre. "H" for example means that the tyre has a maximum service speed of 130 mph. Please note that this rating relates only to tyre speed capability, and is NOT a recommendation to exceed legally posted speed limits; always drive within the legal speed limit.



DOT
Means the tyre is compliant with all applicable safety standards established by the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT). Adjacent to this is a tyre identification or serial number; a combination of numbers and letters with up to 12 digits.



UTQG
Stands for Uniform Tyre Quality Grading, a quality rating system developed by the US Department of Transportation (DOT). For more information on UTQG, see 'Tyre Grades'.

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Old 31st March 2009, 01:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

too theory imo... should just teach us when is the right time to change tyre

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Old 31st March 2009, 03:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

Interesting. See the thread mark?

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Old 31st March 2009, 05:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

errm i think this only wks for normal tyres.... performance tyres.... is a bit diff.....

when to change tyres ahz.... see the thread if less than legal marking change.... or 4 yrs.... base on DOT code....

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Old 31st March 2009, 06:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

Interesting I got a lot of things to learn about car.. more new stuff

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Old 31st March 2009, 06:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

do we have DOT? or are these for tyres made in US.. =/
anw, never noticed the rest besides the size.

funny how they mix up inches and mm together. At the same time i think the aspect ratio as a percentage might be alittle off? eg for 235/45/R17, 45% of 235 is 10.5cm.. but from what i see, doesn't look like its more than 6cm or so (definitely less than 10cm, but nv actually measured before thou). Maybe it has it's own set of standards instead?

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Old 31st March 2009, 06:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

all tyres hv manufactering date 1... its in 4 digit format.... aka the DOT all tyres hv shelf life of 4 yrs... usually i change every 2 yrs.... change liao...

think depends on the type of tyres ba... ba....

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Old 31st March 2009, 07:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

lol.. the DOT i refering to is not the date, but the department of transportation stamp.

but yea, the date also quite irritating coz they put in week number instead of just the month so must mentally calculate... tyre manufacturers like testing ppl's maths?

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Old 31st March 2009, 07:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

hmm nt sure... for my is lehz... bt den i on performacne tyres lolz

haha maybe ba... wks vs yr.. 1 yr 52 wks lolz 1 mth 4/5 wks....

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Old 31st March 2009, 10:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

Great conversation.

Tyres manufactured in diff origins apparently has different stamps. The standards has few variation from what i gathered.

isit?

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Old 1st April 2009, 02:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

hehs.. i also nv really pay attention to these tyre markings in detail. besides the size, the most i looked at was the date.

tyres in sg also not many choices and brands to choose from. Also only have one season, so makes things easier as well.

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Old 1st April 2009, 03:11 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

off topic abit , how does the size of rim affect ur car performance ?

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Old 1st April 2009, 06:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

actually it depends... its a mixture.... larger wheel size aka plus sizing or upsizing wheels n tyres give u a better grip as more contact area but will cause u to have a heaiver fuel consumption... tat y ppl usualy say u upgrade to 16 17 18 inch wheels ur fc = like shitz... bt den if u go for those original ultra light weight rims which can be quite expensive can cost up to 1k per rim... 1 car = 4k just rim alone.... for those u will get good performance nice look as well as gd fc....

a important note on using ultra light weight rims no doubt tat reducing weight is gd for the car.... and better fc but dont over reduce.... ur car will be too light end up car can just flip... always research ur car weight distribution and each component weight... when u modify ensure wat u reduce or add is compensate to balance off.... a reason y performance cars like subaru and evo so many accident n death is cos ppl any hw mod without taking the car as a whole into consideration.....

for mi.... stock rim ~7kg stock tyres ~3kg which makes 10kg.... bt tat on 14 inch... so i change to 16 inch..... ~5kg rim and ~2kg tyres.... so making it 7kg reduction of 3 kg...bt to compensate for the weight.... i lower my rear of the car by 2 finger and use a lower tyre presue..... basing on original F/220 R/210 nw i using F/300 R/190....

also... when u plus size u change the rev per min... so u might achive higher speed bt try nt to change the radus too much it will make ur ODO and speedo inaccurate.... and lastely.... make sure tyres u change is of same or higher ratiing than the original.... using lower can be extremely dangerous....

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Old 1st April 2009, 08:47 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

thanks for the explanation .
and waa , ur car lol . been in this forum , makes me wanna get 1 too >.<

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Old 1st April 2009, 08:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

wat so gd abt my car.... its just a normal car.... wat...

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Old 1st April 2009, 09:34 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

Originally Posted by bernut View Post
off topic abit , how does the size of rim affect ur car performance ?
It doesn't. the main reason for bigger rims is so they will clear bigger brakes. that's all. so if you see those proper modded race cars(circuit time attack, rally, etc), seldom they will go past 17in because that's the minimum for most brake kits. minus the new GTR and exotics. anw F1 rims are something like 14in? or i think they're actually 13in.

Size of the rim doesn't improve performance, but width of the tyre does (again for eg F1, look how fat those tyres are). usually also with bigger rims, the width is wider also. but that's not a problem coz you can get small diameter rims which are wide to accommodate wider tyres. But only if you have enough power so that the wider tyres doesn't slow u down more. Bigger rims are also heavier, which reduce performance by adding to the unsprung weight of the car.

The weight of a car consists of 2 kinds of 'weight'.. sprung and unsprung weight, or mass would be more correct. sprung weight is what the suspension/spring is supporting, which is anything above. Unsprung weight is the weight that is NOT supported by the suspension, eg brakes, rims, the suspension components itself, the lower arms, etc. The higher the unsprung mass for the same sprung, the more unpredictable or worse the car would react to bumps and uneven roads.

Hence for all those forged bits, lighter rims, lighter brake calipers, lighter wheel nuts.. etc. The rest such as lower arms, knuckles can't really be helped, unless you custom make them from titanium or something, but you can't have unsprung weight that is too little also.
anw even with everything forged one can commercially get, i doubt it would be even be near the minimum limit.

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Old 2nd April 2009, 08:08 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

Originally Posted by Yongjin View Post
wat so gd abt my car.... its just a normal car.... wat...
Its good you have knowledge about your own car . I still stuck in the era of knowing about bicycles , haha . . so can only mod my bicycle -_-. Things concerning car i really is gone case le . And i am the type who like to do crazy mod that my mood ask me to , got a lot to learn from here

Originally Posted by typeX View Post
It doesn't. the main reason for bigger rims is so they will clear bigger brakes. that's all. so if you see those proper modded race cars(circuit time attack, rally, etc), seldom they will go past 17in because that's the minimum for most brake kits. minus the new GTR and exotics. anw F1 rims are something like 14in? or i think they're actually 13in.

Size of the rim doesn't improve performance, but width of the tyre does (again for eg F1, look how fat those tyres are). usually also with bigger rims, the width is wider also. but that's not a problem coz you can get small diameter rims which are wide to accommodate wider tyres. But only if you have enough power so that the wider tyres doesn't slow u down more. Bigger rims are also heavier, which reduce performance by adding to the unsprung weight of the car.

The weight of a car consists of 2 kinds of 'weight'.. sprung and unsprung weight, or mass would be more correct. sprung weight is what the suspension/spring is supporting, which is anything above. Unsprung weight is the weight that is NOT supported by the suspension, eg brakes, rims, the suspension components itself, the lower arms, etc. The higher the unsprung mass for the same sprung, the more unpredictable or worse the car would react to bumps and uneven roads.

Hence for all those forged bits, lighter rims, lighter brake calipers, lighter wheel nuts.. etc. The rest such as lower arms, knuckles can't really be helped, unless you custom make them from titanium or something, but you can't have unsprung weight that is too little also.
anw even with everything forged one can commercially get, i doubt it would be even be near the minimum limit.
I see , i notice 1 thing about cars like merc is they got wide tyres . And it feels very good to be sitting inside as the car is very stable compared to other type of car . And of coz , i believe the weight of the car play a part .

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Old 2nd April 2009, 10:11 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

one addtitioanl ting...... if u notice all performance cars front n rear tyres r of diff spec n size.... its for traction control system n for high speed corner nego.... nv ever upset those.... u will find urself in hosptial or coffin if u do...

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Old 2nd April 2009, 10:29 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

I just know when the tyre is close to the triangle, mean that is time to change new one.

When purchasing your tyres, see the manufacturing date, dont take somethings that left for too long, the tyres rubber will get hard.

The problems for me, i always like to pump gas at nite, sometimes cant see, i agar agar the pressure. But over do it will cause it 'run wind' at the pipe there

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Old 3rd April 2009, 12:55 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Re: Reading your Tyre

Since u say about manufacturing date , how many yrs on the shelve is considered the limit for u ?

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